Bernalda is one of those charming, laid-back southern Italian hill towns nestled amidst more rugged, well-worked hills used mainly for olive, grape and citrus production. Most families go back several generations rooted to the town itself, never having travelled outside the region. The streets are narrow, too narrow for the cars which must make 8 or 9 maneuvers to turn a corner. Old men sit in their folding chairs in rows along the (one) main road observing, smoking, keeping guard. The town is deserted from 1:30-5pm when every store closes and every good citizen traipses home to eat lunch and then rest for the afternoon siesta. The "casalinghe" housewives hang all their laundry street-side, teenage couples kiss in the doorways, wooden crates of navel oranges, mandarines and kiwi are stacked up on the street.
Where is Basilicata and Bernalda?
The region of Basilicata is one of the lesser-visited regions of Italy. With common references to Italy's geography as a "boot", Basilicata would be called the "instep", nestled between Campania to the Northwest, Calabria to the Southwest and Puglia (Apuglia) to the East. The region just barely touches the west coast, Tyrrhenian Sea, with a longer strip of coast on the Ionian Sea on the southeast corner. It contains two provinces: Matera and Potenza (which is the capital), and has approximately 600,000 residents.
Bernalda is a 40-minute drive from Matera and 60 minutes from Potenza. Even more convenient is the fact that it's only 7km away from the train station in Metaponto which has a direct line from Rome.
A bit of Bernalda history:
Divided into two parts, Bernalda has a more residential, commercial area and a historic quarter (white-washed stone and stucco buildings, iron gates, mini gardens on mini terraces). The historic area of town has Medieval origins, dating back to the 11th century, when it assumed the name Camarda. It wasn’t until 1470, that it became known by its current name, under the feudal rule of Bernardino de Barnaudo, secretary to the Aragonese King. The Aragonese castle was built as the family residence, and lays on the southern edge of the historic town center. Recently restored, the castle shares a charming square with the Chiesa Madre (Mother Church) dedicated to San Bernardino (16th century). When the flowers begin to bloom and the wisteria blossoms in late Spring, many stop here for a wonderful panorama over the Valle del Basento.
Spotlight on Bernalda! Just a few months ago Bernalda had a few minutes in the spotlight when the New Yorker printed a story about the endeavors of famous director, Francis Ford Coppola, and his family ties to this village (his father born and raised in Bernalda).
To briefly travel back even further in history, the territory of Basilicata hosted Lucani (thus Basilicata is also entitled Lucania) which were the original settled tribes. Soon arrived the Greeks (creating Metaponto, Heraclea, Siris in 7th century BC), the Romans, Byzantines and then the Normans. Although swept over by multiple powers and civilizations, there are still archaeological fragments (primarily in Metaponto) of it's broad history.
Where to stay and eat in Bernalda:
Hotels:
- Hotel Giardino Giamperduto - current construction, on the edge of town with a 10 minute leisurely walk from the center. A mini-paradise with 11 rooms, all the comforts, a breakfast nook in a huge common area with fireplace, plush couches and reading materials, a pool and garden area enlivened with lemon, orange and pomegranate trees.
- Hotel La Corte-a small rustic yet charming hotel/restaurant in the center of Bernalda, near all shops and market. Great for shorter stays. Comfortable rooms, including A.C.
- Hotel Forliano- a 55 room hotel at the base of Bernalda. Modern amenities, simple design. Includes restaurant, pool, children's playground and reception/meeting rooms.
Restaurants/Pizzerie:
- Lo Sfizio - a charming and popular pizza/foccacia/pastry shop on the main street Corso Umberto. Regional products include: friselle, tarali and almond cookies. All products made on site.
- La Locandiera- trattoria offering up regional pasta and meat dishes, cheeses and locally made olive oil and wine. Included in 2010 guide books Michelin, Slow Food and Gambero Rosso, this charming locale is worth a visit.
- Memphis Pub and Pizzeria- a lively pub with live music every Friday, good, cheap pizza and a selection beer. The one and only hot spot for nightlife in Bernalda!
- Equineria di Mimmo- if you're going to go local, then this place has the best meat. There's a butcher's counter on the ground floor and the trattoria above it. The meat here is spectacular, but be aware that horse meat is a specialty in this part of Italy.
Trips to surrounding areas:
Culinary, Historic, Cultural Trips:
- My Italian Job- an agency that organizes cultural and culinary activities, holidays, excursions to Irsina, Matera, Pisticci, Maratea, etc.
- Rustico Culinary Tour- excursions and cooking lessons in both Basilicata and the highlights of neighboring Puglia.
- Sassi Matera- for a personal tour with a licensed English-speaking guide in Matera, contact Amy Weideman. (Her info is at the bottom of the site, so scroll down.) Amy is also listed in Lonely Planet's Guide to Southern Italy.
- BikeBasilicata- for the more adventurous, this company offers walking and biking tours in Basilicata and Puglia.
Towns nearby to visit:
- Basilicata: Pisticci, Montescaglioso, Matera, Venosa, Irsina, Maratea, Metaponto (and archaeological museum)
- Puglia: Alberobello, Lecce, Taranto, Otranto, Gallipoli, Brindisi, Locorotondo
- Basilicata: Lido Metaponto, Lido Policoro, Maratea
- Puglia: Salento, Ostuni, Gargano, Polignano, Ugento
Cristina Pinton - American artist, writer, teacher having lived in Italy for 8 years, narrating, commenting on, observing and challenging life around her.
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